天线安装全流程（支撑杆篇）——如何轻松搞定天线底座？

先来介绍下需求：在原来的城市楼顶架设环境中，遇到了几个挺烦人的问题，一是底噪环境十分感人——CW还能勉强通联，SSB模式基本只能随缘和大功率台唠两句；二是原先的K4GP只支持7、14、21、28MHz，对于一些其他的业余频段（比如18、24MHz）比较无能为力；最后就是楼顶馈线损耗大，弱信号收不到，功率衰减也大，感觉有力气使不出去，于是打算在一个电磁环境良好的地方架设一套全频段天线系统。再来介绍下场地条件：空旷场地自建房，主体为钢混结构，屋顶承重很大，还有一片种树的空地，附近无市电高压线（一定要注意天线需要和输电线至少保持10米的水平距离，避免天线靠近电源线……）。

考虑到场地限制和架设难度（具体原因请移步下一篇——随机长线天线篇）：随机长线天线（电线+长线天调）对线长要求不严格，占地小而且不挑条件，非常符合需求，于是最后选择它。然后便需要考虑架设方式：为了避免地面对波束形成反射，尽量需要离地高一些，有条件的话2米以上更佳，所以最初我选择一头装在房顶水塔，一头接在树上保证离地高度 [upl-image-preview uuid=9042d0fc-9934-40b7-a2ea-643771a02278 url=https://storage.hamcq.cn/2025-08-27/1756282057-81126-40a0c4d856fd1755883fa497ed7a024.jpg alt={TEXT?}] （楼顶环境图）这里发现了第一个问题：如果直接从屋顶水塔的支撑结构拉到右侧房子后面的树上，由于房子是坡顶，将导致天线距离房顶最低不足1米，于是我想到了两个方案： ① 用扎带将天调捆在水塔顶部。由于塔身周长大概3米，一个人搞不定，需要俩人同时登梯子配合，比较危险，而且如果以后想加其他天线（GP、八木等），水管就显得无能为力了，遂放弃。 ② 使用钢管进行支撑。需要将一根钢管、水泥、砂石料混合浇筑形成一个底座，加以风绳子起辅助固定作用，整体肯定体力花费大，但是安全有保障，以后还可以在上面加上其他天线和监控设备，一劳永逸，最终选择使用一根直径51mm，壁厚5mm的304不锈钢管作为支撑。

使用钢管作为支撑就会带来另一个问题：在混凝土凝固之前的砂浆状态，钢管插进去之后是无法依靠自身立起来的（总不能用手扶着撑24小时吧……），在咨询不愿意透露呼号的隔壁老王后得到了如下几个方案： ① 在底部焊接一个铁架子，在凝固之前靠自身重力稳定 ② 使用植树的支撑护具进行固定 ③ 使用太阳伞底座进行固定 [upl-image-preview uuid=56c091ee-c27b-49f4-87a4-a1de5d43dc53 url=https://storage.hamcq.cn/2025-08-27/1756282551-782661-9dadb31d99a0ea660cc5d03ae041375.jpg alt={TEXT?}] （植树的支撑护具） [upl-image-preview uuid=b4929843-bae5-420f-adec-15e3faaa6bf9 url=https://storage.hamcq.cn/2025-08-27/1756282569-142596-5ab59a1a7a963f08c737b99c166fa3e.jpg alt={TEXT?}] （太阳伞底座）附近没有能焊接架子工作的人，方案①无法开展对于方案②，护具内径最细也有100mm，对于51mm外径的钢管过大，也不适用遮阳伞底座方案在淘宝找到了一家最大支持内径为54mm的管在卖（如上图），壁厚1mm作为临时支撑也够用，于是选择它（顺便提一句，底座重量具体要根据实际情况选，像这个39KG就有点太沉了，得需要点体力才能搬上房顶…）

### 支撑部分： 5米304不锈钢管（壁厚5mm外径51mm），管顶加内径50mm PVC帽避免进水，降低直击雷被劈概率风绳采用吊兰螺丝+钢丝绳+拉紧器+单价，推荐采用不锈钢材质，不易生锈。根据@BI3ARY的建议通过一个哈夫节（不是哈夫克）和钢管进行连接（看到侧面小孔了吗，是的从那里把风绳穿过去……这东西是管道抢修堵漏用的，这么用有点太邪修了） 3个半挂废弃轮胎（这个在附近修理厂基本都有，不值钱，直接拿下） 95斤水泥一袋（高标号干的会快，也更需要养护，根据需求选择，这里我选择了C42.5号）砂石料（沙子、小石子）6袋两个大塑料袋用于混凝土养护（混凝土凝固过程中放热，如果不进行保湿里面的水分会流失导致开裂，这里也可以使用湿草帘） [upl-image-preview uuid=a90d7416-0d1a-4289-9229-af980d86613f url=https://storage.hamcq.cn/2025-08-27/1756284075-576177-f67463dcd74af063a47b3b1380bdcb4.jpg alt={TEXT?}] （哈夫节示意图） [upl-image-preview uuid=26034518-a6d0-46a3-aa9e-5a65ee53fd99 url=https://storage.hamcq.cn/2025-08-27/1756284110-448699-f67463dcd74af063a47b3b1380bdcb4.jpg alt={TEXT?}] （“捡来”的轮胎） [upl-image-preview uuid=4346614b-e2d8-4f0a-885b-18fde9e815b6 url=https://storage.hamcq.cn/2025-08-27/1756284144-315623-83dd64156bd718eb18bdf1ce749bd16.jpg alt={TEXT?}] （混凝土） ### 工具部分：砸接地钎用的锤子、打膨胀螺丝的电锤（冲击钻）及合适钻头各种扳手（本次用到了6mm 7mm 8mm 12mm 14mm 19mm几个规格）偏口钳（剪线材）十字 / 一字螺丝刀脚手架：2 套 1.9 米高、壁厚 3.6mm 的，配 4 个脚轮（防刮楼顶防水层+移动方便）安全装备：5 点式安全带（每人 1 套）、医用外科口罩（防水泥灰）、劳保手套（请勿戴手套使用旋转工具）其他：水桶（运砂浆）、2 把铁铲（搅拌水泥） ### 物品备件三个内径50mm的不锈钢抱箍(最后用到2个) 从M5到M8的螺丝、螺母、垫片、弹簧各5套（部分用到）

### 安装步骤（建议4人及以上一起进行） ### 准备了这么多，终于到了激动人心的安装环节 ### 物料转运 ① **做好安全防护，保障作业安全** ② 首先组装好脚手架，锁好脚轮，为房顶提供物资运输通道 [upl-image-preview uuid=97eddf6d-cbfe-479c-b3d3-d0c6eb5ef6ad url=https://storage.hamcq.cn/2025-08-27/1756284459-607195-234e351ebafb311b73746af9370cbc6.jpg alt={TEXT?}] ③ 将支撑底座的大理石和轮胎放到位组装好，底座的这个钢管没有提供固定钢管用的螺丝，这时我们之前准备的M8螺丝就派上用场了，拧上后完全适配，注意进去一点就可以，方便后续插管 [upl-image-preview uuid=bd1b79f1-46d2-4905-9639-3d9c170d8216 url=https://storage.hamcq.cn/2025-08-27/1756284506-860505-dcfe25ecb7f23ce39dfa87efa2aa1d2.jpg alt={TEXT?}] ④ 按同心圆方法堆底座，最底下放大理石，上面依次叠3个轮胎 [upl-image-preview uuid=cae9d4e1-cf5f-4c8f-9101-2f056119e118 url=https://storage.hamcq.cn/2025-08-27/1756284521-733305-0d39715ba51c55ec53f3306360b6c86.jpg alt={TEXT?}] ### 钢管搬运 5M钢管约40KG，这步得最少两人保证安全配合，：1 人在地面递，1 人在楼顶接 [upl-image-preview uuid=a0a110f2-936e-484a-8338-c7f2e639e90e url=https://storage.hamcq.cn/2025-08-27/1756284613-353402-40a0c4d856fd1755883fa497ed7a024.jpg alt={TEXT?}] ### 风绳准备 ①将风绳的吊篮膨胀螺丝分别打在支撑杆的四个方向，保证受力平衡，安装好拉紧器、钢丝、单夹 ②将风绳固定用的哈夫节抱紧在钢管上（这里选择2M处，避免影响天线辐射），提前固定方便后续拉绳 ### 钢管起竖+临时固定这步得最少3人协同操作，慢慢把钢管插进伞架底座，插好后立刻有人扶着，另一人用扳手拧紧底座螺丝，别让管子晃。 ### 固定风绳：还是得有人扶着钢管，其他人把风绳用单夹固定在哈夫节上，拉紧器拉到合适程度，确保管子不歪不晃，临时固定就搞定了。 [upl-image-preview uuid=1143c7d1-359b-4a60-bcd9-b9cef3d397c1 url=https://storage.hamcq.cn/2025-08-27/1756284741-341693-345fe93e4d25453d16430bc755a63dc.jpg alt={TEXT?}]

### 浇筑水泥（最累但最关键的一步）这步至少需要1人搅拌水泥，1人浇筑水泥，这里因为有一段距离，所以增加一位搬运工 ### 1.搅拌水泥砂浆：将 1 袋水泥粉、6 袋砂石料倾倒在地面（会产生大量粉尘，一定要戴口罩，且尽量站在上风向）。先把水泥粉和砂石料充分搅拌均匀，然后堆成 “中间低、四周高” 的形状，避免后续倒水时水流走；接着向中间低洼处少量多次加水，边加水边搅拌，直到所有粉末都混合成砂浆（没有干粉结块即可） ### 2.浇筑与养护：用水桶把砂浆运到轮胎旁，边浇筑边小幅度摇晃轮胎，让水泥砂浆填满轮胎的每一个空隙；浇筑完成后，在混凝土表面覆盖塑料袋进行养护（混凝土凝固时会放热，不保湿的话水分流失会导致开裂）。之后 24 小时里多洒几次水即可，冬天适当延长养护时间 [upl-image-preview uuid=c56d6ccd-8f97-4977-85c2-52ec7b92e665 url=https://storage.hamcq.cn/2025-08-27/1756285319-531118-25c92614369c637c3bf772e7894b54b.jpg alt={TEXT?}] [upl-image-preview uuid=48ed49d1-0319-4079-a533-cd1bf2bd6727 url=https://storage.hamcq.cn/2025-08-27/1756285423-665027-0265e957b7781471c70763d1533fffc.jpg alt={TEXT?}] ### 3.等待凝固（约24H） ### 4.完成凝固 ### 至此，支撑杆固定完成，以后想装啥天线都没问题

### 收尾的碎碎念因为在安装过程中踩过不少坑，所以希望友台们少踩坑这是我第一次写这种教程类的帖子，非常期待大家的建议和意见，希望能帮到大家，后续我会再整理随机长线天线的安装及使用，到时候再和大家分享随机长线天线的相关内容。如果各位友台在架设支撑杆时，有自己的妙招或者遇到过棘手问题，欢迎分享交流，一起避坑、一起DX、一起无限进步！ DE 作者 BI3AMG 校对：BI3APU 73

Antenna Installation - The Complete Process (Support Pole Section) – How to Easily Install Your Antenna Base?

BI3AMG

　　This article is specifically written for those who are preparing to build an antenna on their own base or work site, with a focus on the construction details of the support pole. You can read this first and then continue reading the next post about "Random Long Wire Antennas".
　　If you are also planning to install an antenna system at your own home, or simply want to mount a support pole on your roof, I believe that the experience shared here can save you a lot of time and trouble.

First of all, safety comes first!

Must have high-altitude work qualification and proper safety measures in place.
At least two people must collaborate; solo climbing and working in harsh weather conditions are unacceptable!

　　Recently, I've noticed that many of my colleagues in the radio community are interested in setting up shortwave and UV fixed antennas, but they haven't been able to find a comprehensive guide or tutorial on how to install them.

　　Recently, I just installed a new antenna. While preparing to install the support pole and antenna, I encountered several problems and pitfalls. Eventually, I worked with a friend to find effective solutions through both formal and informal methods.

　　Therefore, this post summarizes a common method for constructing support structures. I hope it will be helpful to fellow hams who need to install various shortwave antennas (GP, inverted-V, random long wire antennas, end-fed antennas, etc.), UV antennas (glass fiber antennas (pole mount), Yagi antennas, and their rotators, etc.). I also welcome fellow hams to share any questions or discuss solutions in the forum.

　　First, I would like to thank Mr. Wang, who lives next door and prefers not to disclose his call sign. @BH3FIR @Shiro @BI3APU @BI3ARY @Ethan(Sorted by the order in which call signs were assigned) along with the help and advice from other teachers. Without the assistance of all these teachers, I wouldn't have been able to master this method so quickly.

Wishing everyone a smooth antenna setup experience, DX worldwide!

New antenna installation (the two images show the same antenna)

新天线

Ethan

Sofa: First praise, then see.🤣

BI3AMG

Ethan Master Ball captured!

BD8FTC

Supported

BI3APU

BI3AMG

Let's start by outlining the requirements:

　　When setting up the antenna in the rooftop environment of the original city, I encountered several frustrating issues. Firstly, the ground noise was very strong – CW signals could still be received, but SSB mode was essentially unusable, and even powerful stations were difficult to communicate with. Secondly, the existing K4GP only supported 7, 14, 21, and 28 MHz, making it ineffective for other amateur bands (such as 18 and 24 MHz). Finally, the rooftop coaxial cable had high losses, resulting in weak signal reception and significant power loss. This made it difficult to achieve strong signals, so I decided to install a full-band antenna system in a location with good electromagnetic conditions.

Let me also introduce the site conditions:

　　The property is a self-built house on an open field. The main structure is steel and concrete, with a very heavy roof. There is also a plot of land where trees can be planted. There are no overhead power lines nearby (it is important to ensure that the antenna is at least 10 meters away from any power lines to avoid interference...).

BI3AMG

　　Considering the space limitations and installation difficulty (specific reasons can be found in the next article – Random Long-Wire Antenna section): The random long-wire antenna (with cable + long-wire antenna adjustment) has relatively lenient requirements for cable length, occupies a small area, and is adaptable to various conditions, making it highly suitable. Therefore, we ultimately chose this option.
　　Then, the mounting method needs to be considered: To avoid direct reflection of the beam, it's best to mount it as high as possible, ideally above 2 meters. Therefore, I initially chose to mount one end on the roof water tank and the other end on a tree to ensure sufficient height.

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　(Roof-top environmental view)
　　The first problem I identified was that if the antenna were directly pulled from the support structure of the rooftop water tower to the tree behind the house on the right, due to the sloping roof of the house, the distance between the antenna and the lowest point of the roof would be less than 1 meter. This led me to consider two solutions:
　　① Secure the mast to the top of the water tower using rope. Given that the circumference of the tower is approximately 3 meters, it's difficult for one person to manage this; two people need to climb the ladder simultaneously and work together, which is quite dangerous. Furthermore, if I wanted to add other antennas (e.g., GP antenna, Yagi antenna) in the future, the water pipe would become a bottleneck, so I decided to abandon this idea.
　　② Use steel pipes for support. A steel pipe, cement, and gravel mixture is poured to create a base, with a guy wire providing additional support. This method requires significant physical effort, but it provides a secure and reliable solution. Furthermore, it allows for the addition of other antennas and monitoring equipment in the future. Ultimately, we chose to use a 304 stainless steel pipe with a diameter of 51mm and a wall thickness of 5mm as the support.

BI3AMG

　　Using steel pipes as supports presents another problem: once the concrete has partially set, inserting the steel pipe makes it impossible for the pipe to stand upright on its own (obviously, you can't just hold it up with your hands for 24 hours...). After consulting Mr. Wang next door, who didn't want to reveal his call sign, I obtained the following solutions:
　　① Weld a metal frame to the bottom and stabilize it using its own weight before it solidifies.
　　② Use planting support to secure the plants.
　　③ Secure with the sun umbrella base.

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　(Support structures for tree planting)

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　(Umbrella base)
　　There are no welders available in the area who can work on scaffolding, so option ① cannot be implemented.
　　For option ②, the inner diameter of the protective cover is as small as 100mm. This is too large for a steel pipe with an outer diameter of 51mm, and therefore unsuitable.
　　I found a supplier on Taobao that sells a base for the sunshade umbrella with a maximum inner diameter of 54mm (as shown in the image above). The 1mm wall thickness is sufficient as a temporary support, so I chose it.
　(By the way, the weight of the base should be chosen according to the actual situation. For example, a base weighing 39 kg is a bit too heavy and would require some physical effort to lift onto the roof...)

BI3AMG

Support section:

　　5.304 stainless steel pipe (5mm wall thickness, outer diameter 51mm), with a 50mm inner diameter PVC cap at the top to prevent water ingress and reduce the probability of being struck by lightning directly.
　　The wind rope uses a philips screw + steel wire + tensioner + price. It is recommended to use stainless steel, which is not prone to rust. According to the suggestion from @BI3ARY, connect it using a Hawthrone fitting (not a Hawthorne) and a steel pipe (did you see the small hole on the side? Yes, pass the wind rope through there... This is used for repairing and plugging leaks in pipes, so using it like this is a bit too unconventional).
　　Three and a half used tires (these are readily available at local repair shops, they're worthless, so just take them)
　　One bag of 95 kilograms of cement (high-grade dry cement will set faster and also require more care; choose based on your needs. I chose C42.5 here)
　　Gravel (sand, small stones): 6 bags
　　Two large plastic bags are used for concrete curing (to prevent heat loss during concrete setting, which can cause the water to evaporate and lead to cracking. Wet grass mats can also be used here).

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　(Schematic of a Huffman coding scheme)

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　(The "found" tires)

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　(Concrete)

Tool section:

　　Hammer for grounding stakes, impact drill (hammer drill) for driving expansion screws, and appropriate drill bits.
　　Various wrenches (including sizes of 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 19mm) were used.
　　Side cutter (for cutting wires)
　　Crosshead screwdriver / One-piece screwdriver
　　Scaffolding: 2 sets, 1.9 meters high, with a wall thickness of 3.6 mm, equipped with 4 castors (for protecting the ceiling and easy movement)
　　Safety Equipment: 5-point safety harness (one per person), surgical face masks (with waterproof clay), work gloves (do not use rotating tools with gloves)
　　Other: Buckets (for carrying mortar), 2 iron shovels (for mixing cement)

Spare parts

　　Three stainless steel straps with an inner diameter of 50 mm (two were used in the final application).
　　5 sets of screws, nuts, washers, and springs (from M5 to M8) (some used)

BH2VSQ

BI3AMG What Havoc soldiers (not

BI3AMG

Installation steps (recommended for groups of 4 or more people)

After all this preparation, we've finally arrived at the exciting installation stage.

Material transportation

　　①　Ensure safety precautions are in place to guarantee safe operations.
　　② First, assemble the scaffolding and secure the wheels to provide a material transport channel for the roof.

　　③ Assemble the marble base and tires onto the support, ensuring they are properly positioned. The steel pipe on the base does not have screws for securing it; at this point, we can use the M8 screws we prepared earlier to fix it securely. Make sure to insert them slightly so that they fit perfectly and make it easy to insert the tubes later.

　　④ Place the base on a concentric circle, then place the largest marble at the bottom, followed by three tires stacked on top.

Steel pipe handling

　　A 5-meter steel pipe weighing approximately 40 kg requires at least two people to cooperate safely: one person on the ground handing it over, and another person on the top floor receiving it.

Wind rope preparation

　　① Secure the basket's expansion screws to the support pole in four directions, ensuring balanced load distribution. Install the tensioner, wire, and single clamp.
　　② Secure the luff hook firmly onto the steel pipe (choosing a location of 2M here to avoid affecting antenna radiation), and pre-fix it for easier subsequent rope pulling.

Steel pipe erection + temporary fixing

　　This step requires at least 3 people to work together. Slowly insert the steel pipe into the umbrella stand's base, and then have someone immediately support it while another person uses a wrench to tighten the base screws, ensuring that the pipe doesn't move.

Fixed wind rope:

　　Someone still needed to hold onto the steel pipe, while others secured the guy rope to the hook using a single clamp, adjusted the tensioner to the appropriate level, and ensured that the pipe remained straight and stable. This temporary fix was sufficient.

BI3AMG

Pouring concrete (the most tiring but crucial step)

　　This step requires at least one person to mix the cement, one person to pour the cement, and an additional worker for transportation due to the distance.

1. Mixing cement mortar:

　　Pour 1 bag of cement powder and 6 bags of aggregate onto the ground (this will create a lot of dust, so be sure to wear a mask and stand with the wind at your back). First, thoroughly mix the cement powder and aggregate. Then, form the mixture into a shape that is "low in the middle and high on the sides" to prevent water from running off when you add it. Next, slowly add small amounts of water to the lowest point, while mixing continuously until all the powder has been mixed into mortar (no dry powder clumps should remain).

2. Pouring and Maintenance:

　　Pour the concrete mixture into the tire using a bucket, while gently shaking the tire as you pour to ensure that the concrete fills all the gaps. Once pouring is complete, cover the surface of the concrete with plastic bags for curing (concrete releases heat when it sets; without proper moisture retention, it will crack).
After this, water it a few more times over the next 24 hours, and extend the care period appropriately during winter.

3. Allow to solidify (approximately 24 hours)

4. Complete solidification

With this, the support pole is securely fixed; I can now install whatever antenna I want without any problems.

BI3AMG

Final thoughts and reflections

　　Because I encountered many problems during installation, I hope that everyone can avoid making the same mistakes.
　　This is my first time writing a tutorial-style post, and I'm really looking forward to hearing your suggestions and feedback. I hope it can be helpful to everyone. In the future, I will also organize and share information about installing and using random long-wire antennas.

　　If our fellow stations have any clever tips or encountered tricky problems when installing support poles, please share and discuss them so we can avoid pitfalls together, achieve DX together, and continuously improve!

　　Author: BI3AMG Proofread by: BI3APU
　　73

Hangying

Amazing! Large-scale project 73

BI3AMG

Hangying Thank you for your support.

BH7HQT

I envy large-scale projects.

BI3AMG

BH2VSQ Caught! Hehe😜

BI8FRF

Currently, this platform requires a significant amount of manpower and effort to support the "flower-shaped" base. However, it would be more efficient and beneficial in the long run to directly build towers, which would be better suited for installing various types of antennas and also facilitate maintenance and repair.

BI3AMG

BI8FRF It would be much easier to do it at the tower, but unfortunately, there isn't enough space on the roof. Haha!

BG9CHE

BI3AMG You could try using a truss system? If there's a place where you can attach a rope.

BI3AMG

BG9CHE 天线桁架也不错，回头拉倒V整一个🤔

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